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  • Gary Crallé

Exploring Down East in Yarmouth, Nova Scotia – The way to Cape Forchu

After a filling breakfast we left the ultramodern TRU by Hilton with its bold indigenous-Scandinavian design for a morning drive to Cape Forchu Lighthouse. Louise and Leonard Deveau were giving a pop-up roadside lobstering demonstration at Yarmouth Bar (a sandy shoal).

That's our super duper guide David Sollows signing the guest book in the photo after we learned how to splice a rope with a fid (a steel pin to open the strands). You never know when that might come in handy, especially on a lobster boat. Bet you didn’t know that lobsters are right or left-handed, or that most are lefties. Me neither. Free demos like these are presented for visitors by an organization of local fishers known as Living Wharves.

Fish Point marks the entrance to Yarmouth with a view of Bug Lighthouse, so-called because it’s discordant warning sound “bugged” local residents. A canon sat here to foil American invaders during the War of 1812, but with trade cementing good relations between the local populace and New England, the gun was fired only once. Fishing is still the life blood of Yarmouth, but nothing like it was in 1890 when records showed 648 registered fishing boats in the area.

For crazy colour a kitschy Instagram-ready Buoys Wall stopped us again. Minutes later, the Cape Forchu lighthouse hove into view. It's easily bikeable from Yarmouth. The structure never fails to impress, no matter what the weather. Mid-century modern, it’s tall, sleek and minimalist. Allison was our guide to the top. She met the weight restriction and pointed out with a grin she was also over the minimum height limit…barely. For more on the lighthouse, here’s a previous blog.

Talk about the life of Riley! Literally around the bend from the Cape, John’s Cove Beach is a deserted spot for those in the know. Mind you, the water's pretty cold. We chatted with Ken Cleveland who left Cambridge, Ontario to retire in a home overlooking the beach. He bought it online, sight unseen. “I’m the luckiest man." His 2 ½ year old St. Barnard-Newfoundlander ‘Frankie’ was lovin' it too.

Photos and text © Gary Crallé 2022 All rights reserved

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