CRALLÉ
Fotograf podróży / Writer
w pogoni za esencją
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A Portuguese Tour of Discoveries
Compass star and map of the world at the base of the Monument of the Discoveries, donated by South Africa
Looking for somewhere pleasant and affordable to escape and recharge?
Portugal’s famous Mediterranean climate and diet pair well with its natural landscapes and cultural history, offering a powerful balm to the frenetic North American lifestyle. From the 15th to the 17th century Portugal led a European Age of Discovery as its sailors explored (and plundered, like everyone else) distant parts of the world.
Portugal became fabulously wealthy before fading from prominence into cultured contentment. The Portuguese used to go everywhere in the world. Now it seems everyone is coming to Portugal — for good reason. It’s affordable, quaint yet modern, simple yet cultured, and for gastronomes offers solid cuisine with fine wines. Don’t forget all that sunshine too.
The guiding theme when planning our trip was Rejuvenation Through Exploration — a modern traveller’s Age of Discoveries.
Lisbon, Monument of the Discoveries overlooking the Tagus River
For some great ideas and tips on your own journey come with us on a circular driving tour of southern Portugal that starts in Lisbon. Flying from Toronto, my wife Lis and I chose April - May for the weather, booking accommodations and a rental car online to make a grand circle eight driving tour of the entire country. Beyond the capital city of Lisbon, this story navigates a southern loop through the regions of Alentejo and Algarve.
Our biggest regret? Not allowing enough time to relax and explore wherever we were. Instead, our overly ambitious schedule had us almost constantly on the move. Our bad. Your benefit.
Lisbon, tram Number 28
BOOKING FLIGHTS and ACCOMMODATION
I used to travel without reservations (in every way, ha ha) but now I’m more circumspect. In this age of mass tourism, finding accommodation just as you arrive can be a gamble. For Portugal and anywhere else, bookings have moved online and are now managed and controlled by a handful of familiar names like airb&b, booking.com, priceline etc. These platforms will help make reservations easily if you’re not a DIY person. Believe me, delegating this kind of work can save lots of time when you’re putting together a long trip.
We booked flights with leisure carrier Air Transat. Numerous airlines fly to Portugal, including TAP, the National Portuguese airline. If travelling onward to other countries, check for multiple city fares to start or end your trip.
There are 3 ways to make your travel arrangements. 1) Booking through a travel agent (in Ontario, Canada) ensures a refund if something goes wrong in unforeseen circumstances. 2) Reputable global booking companies enable comparison pricing online for easy booking. 3) Reserving directly with a property can eliminate as much as 20% booking fees charged by the major platforms.
A cautionary note: always check the URL (web address) of unfamiliar websites through www.trustpilot.com.
A COUPLE OF TOP TIPS FOR DOING LISBON
Within a few decades Portugal has gone from near obscurity to top of the travel bucket. The capital city of Lisbon exudes an undeniable charm. Like Porto, it’s an old city with a young vibe.
If you haven’t already bought an eSIM before arriving, get a Portuguese SIM card at the airport. The tourist booth can direct you to the retail shops in the terminal. SIMS are cheap, but I recommend comparing prices.
Four days of frenetic sight-seeing plus sound sleeps put jetlag behind us. There are lots of places to stay in the city core, ranging from lux to bare bones. The latter would best describe our digs in the old Alfama district. A tram line ran down the middle of our narrow street, and its routine 7am rumble became our morning wake-up call.
Trams in the historic district tend to suffer tourist overload with camera and cellphone-laden hands poking out open windows like porcupine quills on wheels, so either get an early start or begin a journey at the end of a line.
The appeal of these little workhorses as they clunk and clang through the streets is universal. Totally impractical, they are a beloved icon.
Unlimited transit rides are just one of the benefits of a Lisbon Card. This useful pass can be bought in 1, 2 and 3-day segments, allowing free or reduced entry to a long list of museums, monuments and attractions. A tip: avoid starting your card on Monday when most museums are closed.
A terrace with a view of the city from Castillo San Felipe del Morro. Castle entrance is included in the Lisbon (Lisboa) Card and you get to go to the head of the line.
Tony and Cecília Gálvez are independent Youtubers who offer practical advice for travellers to Spain and Portugal.
For a mainstream introduction to Portugal, we invited them to lunch. They heartily recommended the Lisbon Card, especially for the National Tile Museum, National Coach Museum, Jeronimos Monastery and Lisboa Story Centre. To their short list I would also add Mafra National Palace which is outside Lisbon. There are so many worthwhile places included in the card that I can’t speak for them all. Here’s a list. You can buy a card at Lisboa Information in Praça do Comércio in the city center by the river.
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Lisbon, the National Coach Museum (Museu Nacional dos Coches)
Food can be a cultural experience in itself. A memorable one for us was dinner at Café A Brasileira in the Baixa-Chiado district. Number 28 tram (a fun ride in itself) will deposit you almost at the front door at the west end of the line.
The restaurant’s art deco interior has remained unchanged since 1905, when intellectuals, poets and writers would converse in the narrow smoke-filled hall. Selling Brazilian coffee, it’s the original home of Bica, a strong espresso.
A breakfast of traditional custard tarts at the redoubtable Pastéis de Bélem will provide sustenance for the often times 2-hour wait to enter the nearby Jeronimo Monastery. Take out or dine in for the atmosphere and crowd watching.
Take out bedlam at Pastéis de Bélem
The best freebie in Lisbon? Without doubt, the miradouros (viewpoints). Lisbon is a city of hills and the miradouros are its windows. Some have terrace cafes; others are just a nice place to enjoy the cityscapes, especially when evening sunlight casts a golden glow over the city.
RENTING A CAR
We spent 4 days in Lisbon before returning to the airport for the rental car we had reserved. This not only saved us 4 days’ rental fees plus parking in Lisbon (if we could have found any), but also gave us time to refresh from the flight. We used uber both from and back to the airport.
I did a lot of research before choosing EPI, a Portuguese car rental agency based in the Algarve region. Their rates and services with no hidden clauses or pressure to upsell insurance and add-ons beat all the competition. Take note that their vehicles have standard rather than automatic transmission.
Pickup at Lisbon Airport was a breeze. Roberto, the service rep who met us was friendly and fluent in English, the car was what we ordered, our luggage fit the trunk space (as planned!) and there was no extra fee for an additional driver or a transponder to record any tolls we might incur.
Drop off was equally simple and efficient, except for the airport Rental Car Return sign which ambiguously pointed left instead of right into the covered car park as it should have. If you make the same mistake, just circle around leftwards until you 're back at the sign, then turn right.
Vila Nova de Milfontes was our perfect introduction to Portuguese hospitality in the Alentejo region
Vila Nova de Milfontes, Alentejo region, Antonio Caetano Faria & Liliana Bouça with their Rafeiro do Alentejo dogs
DRIVING SOUTH FROM LISBON
Go local! Rural tourism provides unique experiences. We sped south parallel to the coast, avoiding toll roads and zipping through Sines with its picturesque castle and statue of favourite son, Vasco da Gama who opened trade routes to India in 1497. His voyage started a Portuguese colonial empire stretching from Asia to Africa and the Americas.
Although fading, these colonial links endure, as evidenced from our first stop south of Lisbon at Vila Nova de Milfontes. It’s a family-owned rural tourism property managed by Antonio & Liliana after 14 years living in Macao. This lovely couple are dedicated to fostering a haven of simple relaxation. Lilliana adds home-made cakes and breads to an already sumptuous breakfast buffet.
Dinner is available at local restaurants vetted by Liliana and Antonio to ensure the best authentic Portuguese cuisine.
Vila Nova was a tranquil contrast to our busy days in Lisbon. The gentle croaking of frogs in the marsh put us soundly to sleep that night.
Further south we arrived at Cabo da Roca lighthouse in Sagres, marking the westernmost point of mainland Europe. Situated at the southernmost tip of Portugal, in the 15th C it was the site of Henry the Navigator’s school of navigation which revolutionized seafaring travel. Ships sailed from here to create a global empire in the 15th century. This spot also held a personal connection for us. It was part 2 of spanning the Atlantic. Part 1 was standing the year before at Cape Spear, Newfoundland, the easternmost point of North America. We tried, but no, we couldn't see the other side.
On the outskirts of Sagres sits Cabo da Roca lighthouse, a silent sentinel by the Atlantic.
ALGARVE IS AN INTERNATIONAL PLAYGROUND
From Sagres eastward to Spain lies the southern province of Algarve. This is Portugal’s riviera where Florida-style luxury housing developments are rapidly replacing farms. For tourists and expats, sun, sea, sand and a Mediterranean climate are the draw.
In Lagos we checked into the delightful Solar de Mós Hotel, another family-owned property with touches of quality throughout. From our balconied room to cozy restaurant, swimming pool to rooftop hot tub, manicured grounds to cheerful staff (plus free parking) we felt wonderfully comfortable.
After soaking up some King Sol rays, a tour of regional wineries occupied us over the next 4 days https://www.travelingmitch.com/mostrecent/algarve-vineyards. Base camp was the large and luxurious PortoBay Falésia in the heart of Albufeira. It exemplifies the relaxed creature comforts for which the town had become known. Portobay’s extensive treed grounds border red cliffs that tower over a long stretch of sandy beach. Chaise lounges scattered over the grass and around a large swimming pool quickly collect sun worshipers as the extensive breakfast buffet (including bubbly!) wraps up each morning.
Almost around the corner, we stopped in to see another luxe property, the Muthu Clube Praia da Oura. It’s an open concept resort with terraces facing a large central pool, restaurant and entertainment area. A new concierge addition sporting an East Indian lobby design adds self-contained suites facing the beach.
The view from our balcony at Hotel PortoBay Falésia of a full moon over the bay
Heading east along the coast we dropped into tiny, cute Tavira where cafés near the old Roman bridge were a hive of activity on the April 25th national holiday celebrating the 1974 revolution that ended the dictatorship of António de Oliveira Salazar.
Closer to the Spanish border the central plaza of Vila Real de Santo António was equally busy as families conversed in the afternoon sun. We thought everything was surprisingly low key for such a significant historical event, but that’s the way it is in Portugal. Stores often appear closed on weekdays, with interior lights turned off, but if the entrance door is slightly ajar, it’s open.
A beach scene in Lagos, the Algarve region, where it's all about sun, sand and sea
ALENTEJO RETAINS A FRONTIER FLAVOUR
North of Algarve lies Alentejo, the nation’s largest and least populated region where the countryside ranges from plain to poetic, colourful to historical. Avoiding motorways, we stuck to the winding hilly 2-lane roads that inevitably define a region for us. In Alentejo trees and other plants often crowd the roads as a natural part of the landscape. It’s a welcoming embrace. These roads would be an absolute blast for sports cars.
To the left and right, cork forests, called Montados, alternate with olive trees and grape vines covering the hills.
Flowers bloom from January to the end of May. Spectacular pinks, purples and yellows predominate, sometimes outdone by wild poppies that sprinkle fields with vibrant specks of crimson.
Sleepy towns like Mértola, our first stop, are remnants of centuries past when Christians and Moors built and battled for control. In Alentejo modest discoveries can be a revelation, whether walking into the Islamic interior of a church that happens to be the oldest mosque in the country or savouring a plate of sardines and prawns drenched in garlic at a nondescript café.
A typical spring scene of wildflowers and trees in Alentejo
For something different, our most unusual accommodation would have to be Império Romano Guest House in Beja where every room was festooned with Roman artifacts and decorations. When Rome ruled. What began as a hobby for the owners has grown into a unique memory of Pax Romana. George was the owner, and through a remarkable coincidence, we had dinner in a nearby restaurant that served Georgian (Caucasus region) cuisine by a family that came from Georgia and had recently bought the establishment from George! How’s that for overlap?
Yet another George (van der Feltz) and his wife Lucia moved to Portugal from the Netherlands decades ago. They operate the rural guesthouses Monte de Serralheira, at a farm on the edge of Évora that became our home for 3 nights while touring the area. George runs a substantial harvesting business and Lucia is an expert certified national tour guide.
Lucia generously provided helpful tips on what to see. One day, she announced that an annual horse and carriage pilgrimage from Lisbon to a local village was concluding with a mass at Santuario de Nossa Senhora D’Aires, a village just 30 minutes away. Hopping into our car, we sped there after volunteer firefighters closer to the event pinpointed the location on Google maps.
At Monte de Serralheira breakfast would be set out beneath a lemon tree on the terrace outside our door.
The equestrian pilgrimage at Santuario de Nossa Senhora D’Aires was an unexpected surprise
We set off for Alcáçovas next, to see how traditional chocalhos are still handmade. Sorry gourmands, but chocalhos are cow bells. They’re fabricated at an industrial estate outside of town — not your typical tourist stop. As a matter of fact, there were no tourists at all, except us. In keeping with our philosophy of buying local, we bought a miniature bell to hang on the Christmas tree.
For historians, Alcáçovas might ring a bell as the site of the Treaty of Tordesillas in 1494 between Spanish and Portuguese rulers dividing colonial territories and the Atlantic Ocean between them. That explains why south and central America speak Spanish, while Portuguese remains the language of Brazil. Now you know.
Handmade chocalhos in Alcáçovas
Évora, the capital of Alentejo, is a UNESCO site of multiple architectural layers worth wandering at leisure for a full day.
The principal Must See spots are the Roman Temple of Évora, Chapel of Bones and Cathedral of Évora plus narrow streets at the town’s centre. If you have time, do lunch al fresco at the garden café beside the cathedral exit. Cozy restaurants dotted around town can make for a pleasant evening, but I was busy being a photo nerd in search of ruins by floodlight.
The pace is unhurried at a café beside the Roman Temple of Évora
INTO THE HINTERLANDS BORDERING SPAIN
Our next destination was Moura, a small whitewashed town dominated by a Moorish castle ruin. We would overnight at Hotel de Moura to be close to stargazing at Dark Sky. As the website says, ‘First starlight tourism destination in the world.’ The plan was to meet Miguel Claro, astro photographer and observatory director, for an outdoor workshop and telescopic viewing in Cumeada, a village near Reguengos de Monsaraz.
Due to poor weather, none of that happened. Nevertheless, we stayed for a fascinating presentation about night skies before making the 30-minute drive back to our hotel by 1:00am.
We found the Dark Sky presentation to be quite enlightening. Is that an oxymoron?
Continuing our small-town adventures, we headed for Monsaraz, a fortified medieval hilltop village not much larger than its main cobbled street. The joy is simply being there. Stunning panoramic views take in the Alentejo plains, Guadiana Valley and Alqueva Lake, one of Europe’s largest.
Our abode for the night was aptly named Casa Pinto (small house) across the square from the Parochial Church of Nossa Senhora da Lagoa. Our casa held creatively decorated tiny spaces throughout. We loved it immediately, even if a tour group took up every seat in the small dining room. Hotel guests can drive their cars into the village to unload luggage, but must park outside the tower entrance or anywhere down the hill where there’s a spot.
Walk the castle ramparts circling a former bullring, admire the views, souvenir shop, try the restaurants and end your day with a stroll through deserted streets under a canopy of stars. It's quite surreal.
An expansive view from our room at Casa Pinto B&B in the hilltop village of Monsaraz.
Final stop in Alentejo on our route north was Sousel, a relatively untouristed town that nevertheless held a warm welcome at Hospedaria da Roda. Simple traditional furniture, a spacious room, excellent breakfast and access to rural sister property Horta da Roda (2.5km away) make this a winner. Orange trees lining the street were a special touch.
After we’d settled in and done some laundry, Claudia directed us to a restaurant where we used Google Translate to order beef steaks. Exactly how beef translates into turkey will forever remain a mystery, but no worries, that’s what arrived on our plates. A regional bottle of wine brought it all together. At breakfast next day Claudia said she had phoned the restaurant to see how we were faring. How nice is that?
The Hospedaria da Roda B&B.dining room is decorated with a plate collection and tables ready for an excellent breakfast.
Lis and Claudia
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